Re: [PNWCanyoning] Utah canyons
Nice snake shot. Looks like he's about to eat your camera.
Is one of those routes Cowboy Canyon?
-Chris H.
--- On Mon, 18/5/09, Robert Cobb <robert_a_cobb@
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Yea Chris, he was a beauty.
And you win the "guess the canyon" contest. It is Cowboy canyon.
Did a canyon here in Moab today called Granery canyon.
Rob
--- In pnwcanyoning@
>
> Nice snake shot. Looks like he's about to eat your camera.
>
> Is one of those routes Cowboy Canyon?
>
> -Chris H.
>
> --- On Mon, 18/5/09, Robert Cobb <robert_a_cobb@
>
>
> From: Robert Cobb <robert_a_cobb@
> Subject: [PNWCanyoning] Utah canyons
> To: pnwcanyoning@
> Date: Monday, 18 May, 2009, 6:44 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Doing a few canyon around Moab for a couple weeks.
> Here are some photos.....
> http://imageevent. com/robertcobb/ utah
>
> Rob
>
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I'm trying to educate myself on this subject, so I'd be interested in
hearing from anyone on their thoughts, tips, techniques for tensioning a
rope for guided rappel.
Please see my crude diagram. A simple "Z-drag" system using a shunt and a
tibloc. Is this how it's done or am I way off base?
http://farm4.
thanks,
coonrad
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A Z system will work fine, as will most any system that can be used for hauling. Keep in mind that you are implementing a leveraged hauling system that is pulling directly on your anchor. Then you are going to add your own weight to it at very bad angles so that the tension is increased significantly. You better have a strong anchor. You should use the least amount of tension necessary to get you past the obstacle you are trying to avoid.
--- In pnwcanyoning@
>
>
> I'm trying to educate myself on this subject, so I'd be interested in
> hearing from anyone on their thoughts, tips, techniques for tensioning a
> rope for guided rappel.
>
> Please see my crude diagram. A simple "Z-drag" system using a shunt and a
> tibloc. Is this how it's done or am I way off base?
>
> http://farm4.
>
> thanks,
> coonrad
>
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Jeff...thanks for the input.
On Wed, 20 May 2009, Jeff Wurst wrote:
> A Z system will work fine, as will most any system that can be used for
> hauling. Keep in mind that you are implementing a leveraged hauling
> system that is pulling directly on your anchor. Then you are going to
> add your own weight to it at very bad angles so that the tension is
> increased significantly. You better have a strong anchor. You should use
> the least amount of tension necessary to get you past the obstacle you
> are trying to avoid.
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I fail to get a picture, from that link. Could you just upload it to the files section here on the group site?
Tom
--- In pnwcanyoning@
>
>
> I'm trying to educate myself on this subject, so I'd be interested in
> hearing from anyone on their thoughts, tips, techniques for tensioning a
> rope for guided rappel.
>
> Please see my crude diagram. A simple "Z-drag" system using a shunt and a
> tibloc. Is this how it's done or am I way off base?
>
> http://farm4.
>
> thanks,
> coonrad
>
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Tom,
try this:
http://www.flickr.
On Wed, 20 May 2009, Tom Jones wrote:
> I fail to get a picture, from that link. Could you just upload it to the files section here on the group site?
>
> Tom
>
>
> --- In pnwcanyoning@
>>
>>
>> I'm trying to educate myself on this subject, so I'd be interested in
>> hearing from anyone on their thoughts, tips, techniques for tensioning a
>> rope for guided rappel.
>>
>> Please see my crude diagram. A simple "Z-drag" system using a shunt and a
>> tibloc. Is this how it's done or am I way off base?
>>
>> http://farm4.
>>
>> thanks,
>> coonrad
>>
>
>
>
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Without the picture, it is hard to say, but one rarely needs to try REALLY hard when tensioning a guide rope. As Jeff said, it is best to only put enough tension on it to get the job done. More than that can create problems with your anchors.
Couple-a points -
- use as static a rope as possible for the guide line;
- different static ropes will respond quite differently to being used as a guide line;
- set the tension as loose as possible that will get the job done;
- depends on the geometry, but plan for tension in the system 3X to 5X body weight;
- in other words, both top and bottom anchors need to be really solid;
- might need to adjust tension for each person (given a variety of body weights);
- might need to adjust tension after the first person pulls stretch out of the rope;
- practice makes perfect;
- USUALLY, pulling the rope tight with a re-directed tibloc pull (without mechanical advantage) and then tying a biner bloc within an inch of the ring will get it tight enough;
- thought I had Dave Black's book right here, which might show the voodoo system (which works well for tensioning from the bottom.
Tom
--- In pnwcanyoning@
>
>
> I'm trying to educate myself on this subject, so I'd be interested in
> hearing from anyone on their thoughts, tips, techniques for tensioning a
> rope for guided rappel.
>
> Please see my crude diagram. A simple "Z-drag" system using a shunt and a
> tibloc. Is this how it's done or am I way off base?
>
> http://farm4.
>
> thanks,
> coonrad
>
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Tom...thanks for the info and the diagram. Much appreciated.
On Wed, 20 May 2009, Tom Jones wrote:
> Without the picture, it is hard to say, but one rarely needs to try
> REALLY hard when tensioning a guide rope. As Jeff said, it is best to
> only put enough tension on it to get the job done. More than that can
> create problems with your anchors.
>
> Couple-a points -
>
> - use as static a rope as possible for the guide line;
> - different static ropes will respond quite differently to being used as a guide line;
> - set the tension as loose as possible that will get the job done;
> - depends on the geometry, but plan for tension in the system 3X to 5X body weight;
> - in other words, both top and bottom anchors need to be really solid;
> - might need to adjust tension for each person (given a variety of body weights);
> - might need to adjust tension after the first person pulls stretch out of the rope;
> - practice makes perfect;
> - USUALLY, pulling the rope tight with a re-directed tibloc pull (without mechanical advantage) and then tying a biner bloc within an inch of the ring will get it tight enough;
> - thought I had Dave Black's book right here, which might show the voodoo system (which works well for tensioning from the bottom.
>
> Tom
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